FAME AT LAST HA HA

Back in July I was filmed communing with my broad beans and runner beans for the next series of The Great British Food Revival.  I have just been told that my modest cameo part can be seen at 7pm on Tuesday 6th November at 7pm on BBC2.

But to more prosaic matters.  Today I have been enjoying working in the warmth of my polytunnels transplanting Winter Gem lettuce and two brassicas, All The Year round cauliflower and Delaway, a delicious open hearted cabbage that I first got from the HSL at Garden Organic, but now grow from my own seed.  I have had a few problems with mice eating onion sets and have had mixed success trapping them.  The wooden little nipper is really no good because the wood swells enough to stop the traps from closing.  I have some palstic ones which are better and it is official, mice prefer peanut butter to chocolate.  They go to the peanut traps before the chocolate ones!  I have ordered a new type of trap and will post result!

I have been having a few problems with my leeks because many have started to bolt.  It’s a bore, but I am still able to use them for soup, once the tough central flower spike is removed.  Tomatoes continue to ripen.  I am often asked about the merits or otherwise of removing the leaves as the fruits ripen.  I only start to remove any leaves once the lower ones have started to fade and only then will I take off leaves up to the highest ripening truss.  A good test of whether a leaf should be removed is to see if when you bend it upwards it snaps off.  If it doesn’t then I leave it.  the danger of removing too many leaves is that the plants struggle to photo-synthesis effectively.  The best way to encourage ripening is to leave a couple of ripe bananas amongst the plants.  The methane given off by the decaying bananas aids ripening.

A LOT OF SEED TO SAVE

It’s now, as we enter autumn proper, that much of my seed-saving activities peak.  This weekend I have completed drying and cleaning the seed from a crop of the loose cabbage Delaway – a Heritage Seed variety – I last saved in 2008.  Despite the wet summer I was able to get about 2 ounces of good qaulity seed from nine plants.  I was able to shake out most of the seed when I pulled the plants at the beginning of September.  I hung the stems up in my potting shed within fleece bags to air and for the last of the seed to full out.  Cleaning brassica seed can drive one to drink, but gentle blowing and winnowing works wonders.  I have also been able to save a considerable quantity of several pea varieties; Douce Provence, an over-wintering pea that I grew a lot of in a polytunnel.  I will be sowing again later in October.  Also Robinson, one of my favourite peas, which grows to 2 metres with large, well-filled long pods of delicious peas.  I also grew an HSL orphan variety, Tom Thumb, which, as the name suggests, are very sqwat, requiring no support.  The crop was not large so I will hold the seed back to grow more next year, this time under cover.  I have a number of beans that I have already harvested and dried.  Two are from Syria.  The first is a delicious bean that is grown primarily to be eaten as an immature bean whole, but the beans are delicious when harvest young too.  I have plenty of seed of this now and will put them on my seed swop list which will be updated this winter. I also grew a Syrian fava bean which was not so prolific with small pods containing 3 fat large beans.  I will grow these again in a sunnier location next year to multiple and also to eat.  I also grew a good crop of my favourite broad bean, Bowlands Beauty.  Again, this bean will be available on my seed swap page later.  Whilst in Switzerland in May I attended a major vegetable event run by Switzerland’s equivalent to Garden Organic and came away with two local French beans, one dwarf called Brown Swiss and the other a climbing bean whose name I have written down somewhere away from this computer.  Both are being grown for seed.  Both make good eating as green beans, so I will have some to swap hopefully.  They are still growing so we need more dry weather to help ripening.  Also I have managed to get a very good crop of Ryder Top of the Pole, a great multi-purpose French bean I will have seed of.  I have been growing Borlotto beans for many year and am currently picking them when just ripe, blanching and freezing.  However, I fancy growing seed from a fresh source in 2013 as a comparator to my own seed.  I have also grown two runner bean varieties in isolation in polytunnels.  the first, Jescott Longun is a show bean that can grow to a couiple of feet.  The beans are also very fleshy and tasty when eaten young.  I should have seed of this to swap this winter.  I also was given a French butter bean called Haricot Gros de Soissons.  It is a runner bean with short pods that contain fat white butter beans.  Sadly the seed guardian sent me seed that was not true as my crop is speckled like most runner beans.  This crop will get composted sadly.  Isolating runner beans is essential if one is to grow seed that is true.

I am only saving one tomato variety this year, Fox Cherry, another HSL orphan.  I have two greenhouses with the crop in isolation.  The tomatoes are delicious, sweet and walnut-sized.  good crops too.  I am sending most of the seed back to the HSL, but will retain some to grow again next year to eat more of!  The good thing about saving tomato seed is that once the seeds have been removed the pulp can be turned into passata, soup, sauces, chutneys and pickles.  Nothing goes to waste.  I will be collecting this seed for at least another month, until the last trusses have ripend.  I have also grown some Syrian peppers in isolation but they are slow to ripen so I may not get seed this time.  I have been able to save my Ukraine hot, sweet pepper and will have fresh seed again.

TOO BUSY GARDENING TO WRITE BUT I AM ON TWITTER

It has been a trying but very busy summer and it is with considerable guilt that I see it has been three months since I last blogged.  Quelle domage.  A number of people have been giving me a hard time, so now I shall do my best to make amends.

Firstly, despite all the shite weather I have had more success than failures.  Last year I suffered terribly from white rot on my onions and garlic.  So awful was it that I thought I should abandon trying to grow these vegetables on my allotment for several years.  I then did some research and discovered that growing brassicas as a green manure on infected ground could help to limit the disease, which is caused by a pesky nematode.  To that end I sowed Calente mustard seed on one of the raised beds I had earmarked for onions last autumn.  In the spring I ran the mower over the crop to shred it and then turned it into the soil.  I allowed it to break down over a few weeks bedore planting up onions.  And this year I have no white rot.  This is a method I will now continue to employ for next year’s spring crop.  I have just sown some more mustard seed in a bed I would like to plant garlic into in November.  Hoepfully the next couple of months should be long enough to get the mustard to grow sufficient to kill aberant nematodes.

since the British weather has been going loopy I have decided to grow more crops in my polytunnels for everyday use.  My over-wintered peas and beans were fantastic this year, so I have now planted a bed of the red onion variety Electric for an early summer crop next year.  I have also planted up some of the garlic I rreceived from Oman with a comparator crop planted on the allotment.  I have also got the fabulous kale Ragged Jack as well as January King cabbages gowing under polythene as well as a late sowing of beetroot, carrots and some tasty winter crops of mizuna, red mustard, lettuce – with more to follow soon – spinach, chard and the fabulous winter radish Pasque.  With summer over and the nights about to become longer than the days I hope we stay dry to allow my squash and sweet potatoes to ripen in the polytunnels.

Back in May I bough for a tenner a half-hundred weight sack of Charlotte spuds which I put in an empty fridge at a temperature of 5 degrees centigrade.  Although some of the tubers sprouted mutant-looking chits I have planted a large number which are now taking over one half of a polytunnel!  When I see spuds for Christmas being sold for as much as fifty pence each I am glad I have tried this way to save money.  Also, with spuds likely to cost an arm and a leg this winter it is good to know I will be digging the beauties from December through to the end of February.  If you have can lay your hands on a few Charlotte or Duke of York it is not too late to plant now; ideally into a greenhouse border, or tubs or bags in a greenhouse or very sheltered spot.

Great news for garlic-lovers

Back in March this year I visited Oman.  (see my earlier post). I had wanted to visit this corner of the Arabian Gulf to witness the great diversity of flora and fauna it is famous for. Needless to say, I was not disappointed.  The great surprise was coming across large amounts of garlic being grown on the Sayq plateau at Jabal Al Akhdar.  There I met a wonderful, hospitable and very enthusiastic garlic-grower, Nabhan, owner of the delightful Sahab Hotel.  He promised to send me some of his crop to both taste and cook with, but most importantly, to grow.  Last week a large sweet-jar full of garlic arrived with the post.  How it made it through customs I have no idea – you could smell the contents from down the street – a heavenly sweet garlic perfume.

Nabhan tells me that this garlic is unique to his region of Oman and probably originates from a French garlic brought to the Middle East in the 18th century. However, this quite magnificent variety could have a more ancient provenance and is certainly a distinct variety having been grown in Oman for centuries. I plan to share some of the cloves with other collectors and will be planting myself in the autumn in one of my polytunnels. I do believe though, that this garlic will do well here. The Sayq Plateau is high at over 1,000 metres above sea-level. The winters are short but can be very cold with snow and freezing temperatures. Nabhan plants his garlic in the autumn and harvests in June.  My guess is that I will be able to harvest in July from a late Octobetr planting.  Only time will tell.

FULL OF BEANS

A couple of weeks of decent May weather and sanity is restored.  The polytunnels are yielding a wonderful harvest of broad beans, peas, carrots, beetroot, potatoes, radish and beetroot and finally everything is growing like fury on the allotment.  The last few weeks have been madness, up with the sun to open the glasshouses and polytunnels, to water, to nurture, to transplant and to sow seed for summer and autumn crops. The garden at The Brockweir Inn is coming along really nicely. Check out developments.

I am thrilled so far with my broad bean finds in Syria last year.  Syria Small grow to around 70cms in height and have been full of flower.  Now, the young pods are starting to come fit to eat.  I have picked some at between 10 and 12cms in length. They are delicious chopped up like French beans and sauted in oilve oil with garlic! The pods are prolific and I hope to be able to allow many to grow on to maturity for seed in 2012. A very nice discovery indeed.

FULL STEAM AHEAD FOR SUMMER CROPS

It may bea shitty, cold, wet day but that should not stop us from getting lots of stuff going for planting out in May when all danger of frost is past. At the weekend I sowed runner beans – an HSL black-seeded variety called Meesna, Borlotto climbing French beans and Ryder top of the Pole, all from seed I have saved in previous years. I sowed seed individually into root trainers and put on the greenhouse shelf to germinate. I already have squash, courgettes and cucumbers growing on in the greenhouse, but it is not too late to sow seed of these vegetables now. Being lucky enough to have several greenhouses and polytunnels to grow crops in, right now it is gratifying to see early potatoes making good growth, broad beans flowering and setting freely – helped by an army of bumble bees – and peas swelling in their pods.

I transplanted sweetcorn into one of my polytunnels which should be ready to eat in July. I will sow a second crop next week to give me cobs in August. Again using root trainers and the greenhouse so the plants will be hardened off and ready to plant outside at the end of May. If you have got room in your greenhouse border or polytunnel then sowing carrots, beetroot, salad crops including radish, rocket , spinach and lettuce in early February promises crops throughout the spring.

If you haven’t got salad crops on the go start now outside and continue to sow a pinch of lettuce seed every couple of weeks for the next few months to give a constant supply of leaves into winter. Now is also an excellent time to plant up your main-crop of potatoes. Plant 30cms apart in rows 75cms apart using a dibber to make a deep hole so the tuber is at least 10cms below the surface. As the shoots appear in a few weeks time earth up to protect from frost and encourage a bigger yield.

A JOURNEY TO OMAN

It is now more than a month since I have returned from a very enjoyable trip to Oman; a country of mountains, desert, vast empty coastline, diverse wildlife, lovely people and some spectacular produce! There was one particular discovery I made that I hope will add to the pleasures of life in the kitchen.

Oman has some of the most fertile and productive land in the Arabian Gulf. It is home to the widest variety of flora and fauna in the region and grows the finest dates I have ever eaten. The mountains are full of wadis and springs that provide water to some of the most amazing and impressive terraces I have ever seen. The Sayq plateau is where roses are grown to make Oman’s famous rose water. On the terraces are also grown pomegranite, olives, mangoes, dates, oranges and lemons, apricots and almonds.

When I visited these terraces in early March the roses were still in bud as were most of the fruit trees. But there was one crop that really surprised me, a delicious purple garlic, which I found growing in a large terrace – a variety I understand was introduced to the region centuries ago and is now effectively a native as farmers grow from their own saved cloves. I was able to buy some garlic locally which I now have growing in one of my raised beds and as of today it is looking good!
Oman’s fertile and productive plains north of Muscat are where most of the vegetables are grown and I was able to see just how varied and productive the country is when I visited the main fruit and vegetable market just outside Muscat.

SWEET POTATO PLANTING

I have had some success growing sweet potatoes through black polythene in a polytunnel. Last year I found mice also liked my crop and I had to remove a number of very lovely nests and badly nibbled tubers. But even in April I have some of last year’s crop to finish eating. Sweet potatoes are magnificent keepers if they are cured properly after harvest. To do this I put them in trays in the airing cupboard for about ten days!

For reasons I do not understand other than profit, buying sweet potato ‘slips’ for planting up in May can set you back a small fortune – at least £1.50 per plant. so, I prefer to grow my own slips using some of last year’s crop. Avoid trying with commercial tubers as these are often treated with a sprouting suppressant and, unless grown in the UK, can struggle in our climate.  There are many modern cultivars of variable quality sold by seed companies.  Beauregard is my favourite with a deliciously sweet orange flesh. Last year I dug just over 20 kilos from six plants.

In late February either fill a large plastic container or a polythene bag with damp sand, put it in a cardboard box to keep its shape and bury two or three medium-sized tubers about two inches deep. Put the box in the airing cupboard if you have one, otherwise the warmest place in your home – I use a cupboard above the stove – as sweet potatoes need a temperature of at least 22 degrees to sprout.  Check regularly.and after three or four weeks the first sprouts will emerge.  Make sure sure the sand doesn’t dry out. At first a few fibrous roots can appear on the surface but then the first shoots stuck their noses up and now the tubers need to be moved to the sunniest part of your home.  If this gets cool in the evening move the plants at night to a warm place., although any warm spot in the house is fine.

Towards the end of March lift the tubers and select the longest and strongest shoots which should be removed from the mother tuber.  I like to leave a small amount of tuber on the slip as it provides nourishment whilst the slips are starting to establish.  If there is good evidence of young roots growing from the stems, plant the slips up to their first leaves in potting compost mixed with some sharp sand. Alternatively put the slips in a jar of water so most of the stems are covered  and after a few days roots will appear.  These slips can then be potted on.  I like to keep the plants on a sunny windowsill in the house for a week or so because the night temperature is greater than my greenhouse.   The slips in the following image are of another purple-skinned variety I was given which are native to the Atacama desert in Chile.

By mid April the plants are ready to grow on in my greenhouse where they should stay until mid May when I plant them through polythene in a polytunnel about 30 cms. apart.

It is important not to plant out to early as sweet potatoes do not like cool weather!

Sweet potatoes plants will grow to a huge size so be prepared to create a jungle!I have also grown them in a cloche with good results.

They should be ready to harvest in late October.  Frost or cold nights will kill off teh haulm.  Collect up the tubers which can grow to a great depth, brush off any soil and spread out in a box to dry and cure.  I leave mine in the boiler house for at least ten days, although an airing cupboard is ideal.  They should stor until April and I find the flavour improves with keeping.

FULL ON SEED SOWING

In the last month I have not been idle.  Despite a very unplesant cold snap in February I have been able to keep on top of my sowing schedule and hope that you all will now be limbering up to get a load of veggies going if you haven’t started already.

I started a second sowing of onion seed in mid-February.  It is certainly fine to sow more now.  I like Franchi Seeds who sell large packets of seed for a fraction of the price of their competitors.  I like to grow red onions which are as a easy to grow as white ones, but, for reasons I cannot understand, cost twice as much in the shops!  Try Rossa Lunga di Firenze.  I also planted a Dutch variety of shallot called Ouddorpse Bruin given to me by a fellow vegaholic.  Due to problems last year with white rot on the allotment I am growing alliums now on a new plot I have been given nearby which hasn’t had alliums on it for many years.  I also planted out a brilliant garlic, Solent Whight.  Highly recommended.  Just yesterday I saw shallots, onion sets and garlic for sale in a garden centre, so there is still time to get these in the ground.

By the end of February my tomato seedlings were reay to be transplanted into 3-inch pots.  I also transplanted the Syrian mini broad-beans I sowed a month ago into the allotment under a cloche.  I also transplanted under bell-cloches some rather pathetic cauliflower plants, All The Year Round, which I had been overwintering in the greenhouse.  The seed of the same variety I sowed at the end of January are growing well and are now hardening off in a cold-frame.  I will be interested to see how the two crops perform.

I also sowed a quantity of my favourite broad bean, Bowlands Beauty, into my new plot in a rasied bed which had a foot of wonderful compost added.

In the last couple of days I have sown more lettuce, Little Gem and an HSL variety, Brown Bath Cos.  If you want to have a continual supply of lettuce througout the year successional sowing is essential.  I have lettuce seedlings in a polytunnel which I will transplant in a coule of weeks’ time.  My over-wintered lettuce in the polytunnels are almost ready now that the endive and radicchio on the allotment are all but finished.  I will sow more lettuce later in March – just a pinch of seed at a time.

Now too is a good time to start off a few leeks in pots in the greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill.  And today was a bit of a marathon as I sowed parsnip, spring onions and radish on the allotment under cloches and in the  greeenhouse, fennel, celeriac and artichoke in modules in the propagator.  I also sowed some patio tomatoes, Tumbler To and Maskotka, which will be planted up finally into hanging baskets in late April.  And finally I sowed a nice purple-flowered climbing French bean called Cobra which gives a good crop of green beans and a yellow wax bean called Gialli.  These will be planted out in a polytunnel for an early crop at the end of March or in early April along with sweetcorn.

With sowing over it was time to pot up some chillies and spend a considerable amount of time reconfiguring everything to fit in the greenhouse!

 

With sowing over it was time to pot up some chillies

THE POLYTUNNEL IN WINTER

I am a passionate believer in the virtues of polytunnels. If you have the space they provide a far cheaper alternative to a greenhouse and will extend the growing season dramatically. I am fortunate to have three of them; two which are 30 feet long by fourteen feet wide and one which is ten feet wide by 15 feet long. This gives me the best part of 1000 square feet to grow in.

Succession is very important to get the most out of one’s polytunnels. In late Februaruy I will plant new potatoes. In March I will be planting up French beans and sweet corn. I use these poltytunnels to grow crops in isolation for seed so this year i will also be sowing Stenner runner bean as I have very little stock of this magnificent variety and in another polytunnel I will grow climbing beans.

Come June things can get a bit crowded as you can see!

Squash and sweet corn do particularly well